What You MUST Know About Visiting Buenos Aires with a DOG

Thinking of visiting Buenos Aires with a dog? ARF, you can stop your wet nose right here – this former Argentinian Yorkie has you covered!

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WOOF, arf-ter my first few months markin’ it up as a furry Argentinian resident, I quickly sniffed the ins and outs of this beautiful cosmopolitan capital city. Translated to “fair winds” or “good airs” in Spanish, Buenos Aires is where I set my furry paws for some better (or shall I bark, cooler) air, which is especially necessary arf-ter living in the semi-polluted Rio de Janeiro for eight months prior.

Let me first bark that Buenos Aires (or simply BA) is one TOP DOG place to visit. From tantalizing tango dances to traditional steakhouses to modern creative energy, BA is a world-class city with a rich cultural heritage tracing back to Italy and Spain. As a former furry resident of Italy and Spain, I can bark with an upright tail that I love feeling like I’m “back” in Europe – well, without actually having to set my alpha paws back in Europe. 

If you plan to visit Buenos Aires with a dog, you’re in luck – BA is quite dog-friendly (although not nearly as dog-friendly as Italy). Any-HOWL, perk up those furry ears to hear my barks about what you MUST know about visiting Buenos Aires with a dog!

How do Argentinians treat dogs?

First bark first, let’s sniff out how Argentinians treat dogs. I wagged my stylish rat tail as my robust wet nose sniffed out the residents of Buenos Aires or “Porteños” (translated as “port city people”) to be mostly dog lovers or at least tolerant of dogs (for those who don’t have them). Besides getting denied a pawful of times at places (keep sniffing below), Penny and I never had any issues interacting with the human locals here. As a matter of bark, we even befriended and hung out with porteños who clearly treat their dogs (and cats) like valued family members.

Since my humans found that many Argentinians speak English, meeting porteños was pretty easy (although much easier for dogs with their unique way of communicating). Unlike in Spain and Greece where I often witnessed blatant abuse and severe neglect of dogs on the streets, I can bark with an upright tail that I never saw any egregious acts (or anything that would make me lower my tail with the way dogs are treated here).

Can you take a dog to restaurants, bars, or cafes?

YES and NO. 

During our first dining out experience, we were welcomed with open paws inside a trendy Japanese restaurant near our aparthotel in Palermo. ARF, my humans were surprised (and relieved) that Buenos Aires was so dog-friendly. Since it was a chilly night, dining indoors was an ARF-solute MUST. Sitting on the red leather booth next to our humans, Penny and I licked our chops to crunchy edamame and mouthwatering nori.

As you can imagine, my humans were suPAW excited to dine with us inside a restaurant. However, the excitement was short-lived; when we returned only two nights later, we were denied entry instantaneously. That’s right, SAME place on a different day – DENIED. Grr. As we continued to explore dog-friendly dining options in different neighborhoods, we discovered that dogs are generally allowed outside, but NOT inside food and drink establishments.

This unfortunate reality was enough to make me lower my pawfectly groomed tail. Since my pack and I arrived at the beginning of winter, dining outdoors did not seem appealing (although we did on many occasions, especially when heat lamps were provided because Penny and I demanded that we tagged along). However, I dropped my tiny jaws to an open-mouth smiley face when some places surely made an exception for us. But, again, despite these few exceptions, indoor dining is NOT the norm for dogs here.

The tail-waggin’ news is that it has been our experience that you can enter with your dog if you’re simply grabbing sandwiches, something quick on the go (take away), or sometimes even groceries at a small local mart!

REAL BARKS: Look for the dog-friendly BA sign or stick on storefronts or doors, “Mascotas de la Ciudad BA, este local es amigo de las mascotas,” which is translated to “BA City Pets, this place is pet-friendly.” WOOF-HOO!

My Favorite Dog-Friendly Restaurants in Buenos Aires (a.k.a. restaurants with outdoor seating)

La Rambla (Posadas 1602, C1112ADD) – Upscale European-style cafe with juicy steaks in Recoleta. PAWS DOWN, my #1 place to wine and dine in the city! Again, it’s nice to go back to Europe…without having to go back to Europe.

Quotidiano Bar de Pasta Alto (Arenales 3360, C1425) – Italian eatery in Palermo serving fresh pastas

PIBA (Av. Cerviño 3833, C1425AGH) – No frills bar & grill located in Palermo

Romario Pizza  (Ortega and Gasset) – Hip pizzeria in Palermo with other locations in Barrio Norte, Las Cañitas, Recoleta, and Acassuso)

1810 Cocina Regional (Marcelo Torcuato de Alvear 868) – My humans’ favorite sPAWt for empanadas in Downtown/El Centro (with other locations in Palermo and Belgrano)

Buller (Junin 1747) – Industrial-style microbrewery and pub with a rooftop located right across from the Recoleta cemetery

Dandy Deli (Olga Cossettini 711) – Fun fast food restaurant in Puerto Madero

La Panera Rosa (C1129ABB, Av. Pres. Manuel Quintana 595) – A cutesy pink-themed casual eatery and cafe in Recoleta with additional locations in Palermo, Barrio Norte, and all over South America. Penny and I met up with our furry local pal Coco here! Sniff out our epic meeting on IG below:

Saint Moritz (Esmeralda 890, C1057) – Traditional, family-run Argentinian cafe in Retiro near my apartment

Exedra (Carlos Pellegrini 807, C1009ABQ) – Classy European-style cafe in Downtown/El Centro that’s pawfect for brunch!

Tanta (Esmeralda 938) – Colorful, upbeat Peruvian eatery in Retiro (next to our second neighborhood)

The following places allowed me and Penny to sit our furry butts inside, BUT it’s imPAWtant to note that their indoor dog-friendliness may be a hit or miss:

Itamaesushi (Av. Cerviño 3402) – Trendy sushi restaurant near our apartment in Palermo. Penny and I were allowed entry indoors the first time, then denied entry the second time TWO days later. They also have outdoor seating, which was not set up at the time.

El Club de la Milanesa (Av. Raúl Scalabrini Ortiz 3190, C1425) – Local chain restaurant specializing in milanesa. The Palermo location allowed me and Penny inside on a chilly night when business was relatively slow. I’ve also dined outdoors at the one in Puerto Madero.

7167 Burger & Drinks (Av. Raúl Scalabrini Ortiz 3110) – Divey burger restaurant in Palermo

Cincinnati Pizza (Esmeralda 924, C1007) – Italian eatery and pizzeria in Retiro with roots in Cincinnati, Ohio! Penny and I were occasionally allowed to sit our furry butts indoors because we lived at the high rise next door and frequented this place often.

Deltoro (Esmeralda 928, C1008 C1007ABL) – Cool burger bar next to Cincinnati Pizza that allowed me, Penny, AND another dog inside

San Telmo Market (Defensa 963, C1066AAQ) – Large, exuberant indoor market featuring a variety of food stalls in the San Telmo neighborhood. Penny and I sat our furry butts down at The Market Burger and devoured some succulent, chops-lickin’ meats. 

What are the BEST neighborhoods in Buenos Aires to stay with a dog? 

#1 Recoleta – PAWS DOWN, Recoleta is the TOP DOG neighborhood to stay with your dog – well, if you can afford it. This totally walkable neighborhood is known for Paris-style townhouses, massive palaces, and trendy retail and boutiques. You will find no shortage of restaurants with dog-friendly outdoor seating and beautiful, sniff-worthy parks. ARF-my-DOG!

#2 Palermo – My first neighborhood in Buenos Aires! The arf-so-trendy Palermo consists of smaller areas like Palermo Soho, Palermo Hollywood, and Palermo Chico. It’s strollable and hip with quirky fashion stores (many of which allow dogs), a diverse collection of international restaurants, cool public squares, and dog-friendly parks. 

#3 Retiro – I spent most of my time in Retiro living in a furnished apartment inside the Bellini Esmeralda, a 45-story luxurious high rise with weekly housekeeping. Once one of the wealthiest neighborhoods in the city, Retiro is now known for art galleries, posh boutiques, Florida street shopping, and Plaza San Martin, my #1 place to leave my alpha marks and rake my feet. The best part about Retiro is its convenient location – bordered on the south by Puerto Madero and Recoleta on the west. My only complaint about Retiro is that the streets are not as clean, and I’m constantly avoiding the homeless (although it’s definitely a breather compared to my hometown San Francisco). 

#4 Puerto Madero – With beautiful bridges and water scenery surrounded by wide walkways, this revamped dockside area is the PAWfect neighborhood to stay with your dog. Redbrick buildings have now been converted to upscale dining establishments, most of which offer outdoor dog-friendly seating. From skyscrapers to expensive apartments, Puerto Madero is the newest HOT SPAWT in the city. 

#5 San Telmo – I heard about this pawtastic neighborhood from my furry Argentinian pal Coco. This multicultural, well-preserved neighborhood boasts colonial buildings, food halls like the San Telmo Market (which I wagged my tail to have such a dog-friendly experience), antique shops, and tango parlors on cobblestoned streets. My favorite part about San Telmo is watching the tango dancers at the main public square Plaza Dorrego.

Are dogs allowed inside pharmacies?

Grr, NO! Unlike my European homebase Italy, dogs are NOT allowed inside pharmacies. If you need to grab medicine or contact solution, be sure to leave your dog at the hotel (unless you want to “park” your dog outside, which my humans have always been terrified of doing). There may not always be a NO DOG sign on the door, but I’ve drawn the conclusion based on my rejection at several pharmacies, including the chain Farmacity. My human has also tried to carry me inside, but the staff is still adamant in enforcing the rules. Grr, what can you do? Rules are rules. 

Are there dog-friendly parks in Buenos Aires?

ARF-solutely! There are plenty of off-leash dog parks to choose from here, but it’s common to find a few dogs walking off-leash at public parks with technically on-leash policies. 

BARK OF CAUTION: Remember to be a good neighbor/visitor and clean up after your dog!

Sniff out my favorite dog-friendly parks below:

Parque Las Heras (French, C1425 ) – Located in Palermo, this lush green space is PAWpular with dogs and dog walkers. This park also boasts soccer fields, playgrounds, fitness machines, ping pong tables, and a skating rink. 

Plaza República de Chile (Av Del Libertador, Sánchez de Bustamante y) – This dog-friendly green space in Palermo is a fun place to sniff out historical statues, including a monument of the independence hero Bernardo O’ Higgins. 

Plaza Sicilia (Av. del Libertador, Av. Casares y) – This pawtastic park with a lake and tree-lined paths is one of my favorite places to meander (and leave my alpha marks to those wannabe top dogs).  

Plaza Alemania (Av. Raúl Scalabrini Ortiz 2602, C1425 DCO) – Also known as Germany Square, Plaza Alemania is a pawtastic tree-dotted plaza with bragging rights to an ARF-maziing fountain with a marble bull, a gift from Germany in the 1960s.

Plaza Alferez Jose Maria Sobral (2600, C1425DEW, Jerónimo Salguero 2502, C1425DEW) – This small park in Palermo may be overshadowed by the nearby Parque Las Heras, but I love sniffing out my daily pee mail here as a furry Buenos Aires resident. Plus, it has a dog park for all those furry Argentinians who like to chase furry butts on the loose.

Plaza San Martin – Situated in Retiro at the northern end of the pawpular pedestrian-only, shopping pawradise Florida Street, Plaza San Martin is a premier park with the famous equestrian statue of Jose de San Martin. Since Penny and I lived only a few blocks away, we always frequented this leafy green space. Surrounded by the city’s most impressive public buildings, this plaza offers some pawsome IG shots. And, it has a separate dog park!

Watch me rake my feet on the red carpet at Plaza San Martin:

Plaza Intendente Alvear – Located in the highly sought-after French-inspired neighborhood Recoleta, this plaza is often mistaken for Plaza Francia, which is located on the side. Since it’s suPAW close to Recoleta Cemetery, this park is a MUST-MARK and MUST-SNIFF for all dogs visiting Buenos Aires. 

Plaza Monseñor Miguel de Andrea – I ARF-solutely LOVE this dog-friendly park near my veterinarian in Recoleta. It has an outdoor gym, jogging track, and a small amphitheater!

Plaza Italia – WOOF, don’t underestimate this small park in Palermo! Conveniently located near the Botanical Gardens and Rural Expo Center, Plaza Italia has a small dog park and an ultra-cool monument to Giuseppe Garibaldi, the political leader and revolutionary who almost single-handedly unified northern and southern Italy. 

With that barked, it’s imPAWtant to bear in mind that some parks do NOT allow dogs, such as Vicente Lopez y Planes Square in Recoleta. Watch out for signs!

Are dogs allowed at the Recoleta Cemetery? 

GRR, I must bark a BIG FAT “NO.” Dogs are NOT allowed inside the Recoleta Cemetery, but the tail-waggin’ news is that there are several dog-friendly rooftop bars with ARF-mazing cemetery views located directly across. For instance, Penny and I chilled and rested our furry paws on the rooftop at hipster-ish Buller (as barked above), sniffing out the scenery from atop while lickin’ our chops to juicy burgers. Buller is an industrial-style microbrewery boasting yummy bar bites and an ultra-hip terrace with pawsome city views. 

Are dogs allowed at Plaza de Mayo?

ARF-my-DOG! YES, dogs like me can sniff out Plaza de Mayo. Arf-ter all, it’s a public square – well, the oldest public square in the city, that is. Plaza de Mayo is THE SPAWT for tourists, and you pawbably can’t get away with not visiting, especially if you’re in Buenos Aires for the first time. Formed in 1884 arf-ter the demolition of the Recova building, Plaza de Mayor is a historical landmark, pawpular city square, and most imPAWtantly, the foundational site of the city (from the second founding of the city to revolution of independence to modern day demonstrations).

Spanning over five acres, the formation unified the city’s Plaza Mayor and Plaza de Armas. Needless to bark, the architecture of Casa Rosada a.k.a. The Pink House is head-tiltin’ impressive. Casa Rosada is the President’s official office, and built in mesmerizing French and Italian Neo-Renaissance style with an asymmetrical facade.

AWOOO, just a HOWL that while dogs are allowed on the exterior grounds, they are NOT allowed inside any buildings at Plaza de Mayo. 

Are dogs allowed inside museums?

Again, a BIG FAT NO. Unless you have a service dog (be prepared to substantiate with proper paperwork, and note that US-defined service dogs don’t always meet the requirements of “service dogs” in other countries), dogs are generally NOT allowed inside museums, including Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes and Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires.

Can you take your dog to a tango show?

YES & NO! During our Buenos Aires residency, Penny and I stopped our furry paws in front of more than several public tango street performances. Therefore, if you want to take your dog to watch tango, chances are you’ll come across one just roaming the streets. However, if you’re thinking of taking your dog to a ticketed tango show at a theater, like the arf-so-famous Teatro Colón, the answer is NO – you’ll have to leave your dog back at your hotel or accommodation. 

Can you take your dog to Uruguay from Buenos Aires?

ARF-solutely! But, stop those paws – there’s a whole process, sniff out my whole bark-down on how to take a dog to Uruguay here!

How is veterinary care in Buenos Aires?

I’ve been to two different veterinary clinics (one in Retiro and another one in Recoleta) and handled by three veterinarians (against my will, arf course), including one regular visit to complete the dog export paperwork to return to the U.S. for a visit and two urgent care visits to control my cough from collapsed trachea.

For the most part, my experience was pleasant or just OK, except for the follow-up urgent care visit; the veterinarian insisted that I needed a second steroid injection even though my cough was better controlled at the time (and still jabbed me in the hind leg despite my human’s disapproval). GRR. All in all, I wouldn’t recommend traveling with your dog to Buenos Aires from the U.S. unless your dog is pawfectly healthy with no pending health issues.

Is it easy to find quality dog food in Buenos Aires?

With an upright tail, I can bark YES – it was easy to get my furry paws on quality dog food. With a plethora of pet supply stores sprinkled over the city, your dog will have access to a variety of quality brands and even specialty food. However, it may be challenging if you’re looking for the same kind of raw diet or dry freeze dog food that your dog is used to back home. I had trouble getting my furry paws on Royal Canin Gastrointestinal Low Fat kibble and wet food (for my sensitive pancreatitis-prone tummy) that I found effortlessly in Rio de Janeiro. 

Several pet stores advised my human that this specific type of Royal Canin food is not available in all of Argentina, despite carrying other types of Royal Canin food. Hence, I resorted to their small dog weight care kibble throughout most of my stay in Argentina (arf-ter finishing the remaining prescription food that my human transported back from California), and luckily, my tummy was OK. Unfortunately, I could not find the Hills ID Low Fat prescription dog food I had back home in the U.S. in both Rio and Buenos Aires. 

Can you take your dog to the mall in Buenos Aires?

Unlike in Rio de Janeiro where Penny and I shopped alongside our humans at dog-friendly and dog-themed malls, our experience in Buenos Aires has been quite different. Although I’ve marked up and down the bustling shopping street of Florida in Downtown/El Centro, I was quickly denied entry at Galerias Pacifico, the grand indoor 150-store shopping center located at the intersection of Florida Street and Córdoba Avenue.

My human took me and Penny to the multi-level Recoleta Urban Mall for a quick 10-15 minutes to check out a store, and all was OK – we did not get kicked out like we did at Galerias Pacifico. With that barked, we are unsure of the official dog policy (which we did not locate online or at the entrance). I’ll be sure to bark at you if I get an update.

WOOF, that’s all I can bark out about visiting Buenos Aires with a DOG – at least for now! Hope you enjoy sniffing out this dog-friendly South American city that Penny and I have proudly barked as our home away from home. 

Ready to take your dog to Buenos Aires? Sniff out what you need to bring to take your dog to Argentina HERE.

Ready to go home? Sniff out my post on how to take your dog to the U.S. from Argentina.

Watch me go on strike in Buenos Aires:

Markin’ it up,

Roger Wellington a.k.a. The Doob

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